Many of the Saleapaga resorts mentioned below were destroyed by the 2009 tsunami.
Whereas Lalomanu wins in the scenery category with its spectacular views of Nu'utele, Saleapaga offers a better choice of places to stay, fewer day-trippers, and hiking possibilities in the hills overlooking the village. You may also find it quieter, friendlier, and safer—the whole South Seas dream. Insect repellent is essential as the small black mosquitoes down this way are stealthy and ready.
Facing the white sands of Saleapaga Beach, seven km west of Lalomanu, are Nonoa, Boomerang Creek, Tauiai, Gogosiva, Vaotea, Le Ta'alo, Banana, Ropini, Faofao, Fiesta, Tagiilima, Lotuse, Manusina, and Ocean View, cited here from east to west.
Boomerang Creek Beach Resort (Steve and Ana Harrison, tel. 40-358, [email protected]) is different from all the other places in that it's run by an Australian/Samoan couple and the fan-cooled fale are lockable (unlike all of the others around here). The seven with shared bath are up on the hillside while the four newer fale with toilet and shower are on the beach beside the road. The communal bathing facilities are clean, there's a guest library, and the security is good. Excellent meals are served at the restaurant/bar overlooking the rocky shore with seven vegetarian choices. (At all neighbouring resorts the chef will decide what you eat.) Natural spring water from a source on the premises is served. Bicycles are for rent, and various tours and hikes are organized. Needless to say, Boomerang Creek is very popular and often full.
Gogosiva Beach Fales offers five thatched fale right on the beach. Electricity and running water are available, and the family that runs the place is very helpful. Though open to the road, Gogosiva has one of the finest views of the crashing surf, the sound of which will lull you to sleep.
Vaotea Beach Fales is sheltered from the road by trees and a stone wall, and it offers a bit more space.
Tapu and Koroseta Legalo's Faofao Beach Fales is one of the largest fale resorts on the southeast coast with 13 beach fale. The communal toilets are not well maintained. It's protected from the road by bushes and is on the best stretch of beach. Faofao's bar presents live music and firedancing at the Saturday night barbecue and fia fia. Day-trippers are welcome at the special Sunday to'onai (lunch) with local cuisine (no additional charge for overnight guests). You can even rent a car here. Le Ta'alo Beach Fales next door charges about the same. Manusina Beach has four fale with meals served on their seaside deck.
Buses leave Apia for Saleapaga almost hourly between 1000 and 1600. There's no need to rent a car to come to Saleapaga or Lalomanu—just catch a local bus.
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