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Samoa Travel Guide

Around Upolu

Like most other South Pacific "Bible Belt" towns, Apia is pretty dead on Saturday afternoon and Sunday. Luckily, a number of fale resorts have opened on beaches around Upolu and Savai'i in recent years, giving visitors the option of evacuating Apia on Saturday morning. There are basically two resort areas on Upolu, Aleipata/Lepa in the southeast corner of the island and Lefaga/Safata in the southwest.

There's no public bus service right around Upolu, and if you want to do a circle trip without renting a car or returning to Apia, you'll need several days and a willingness to walk for long stretches.

Northeastern Upolu

The bridge above Falefa Falls mentioned previously gives access to a little-traveled seven-km road east along Upolu's north coast to Sauago and Saletele villages, an unspoiled corner of old Samoa worth exploring if you have your own transport.

After the twin village, the onward track to Fagaloa Bay becomes much worse and only passable in a vehicle with high clearance. Fagaloa Bay's flooded volcanic crater is more easily reached via a steep side road off the paved road to Aleipata, a bit north of Mafa Pass.

A difficult road continues along Fagaloa Bay's south side to remote Uafato village, 14 km east of the turnoff. At Uafato one finds waterfalls, rainforests, and legendary sites associated with the demigod Moso, plus village fale accommodations (ask for Loi or his mother Sulia) and a bus to/from Apia on Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday. It's possible to hike east along the coast to Ti'avea.

Continue to   Around Upolu: Eastern   »