Savai'i's original backpackers camp is Satuiatua Beach Resort at Satuiatua, 55 km west of Salelologa wharf. You get a mattress in one of the 10 open Samoan beach fale with electric lighting, plus breakfast and dinner. Their small store across the road sells cold beer (when available). The white beach is protected by a long lava ledge, making it safe for children, and you can snorkel at high tide (magnificent beds of staghorn coral). One of Samoa's best left-handers is nearby, and during the surfing season (June-Sept.) Satuiatua can get crowded. Tiny biting sand flies can be a problem.
The whole complex is nestled in a row of huge pulu (banyan) trees. If you've got a couple of hours to spare, ask the staff to guide you to a lava tube up in the bush behind the resort. Otherwise hike west along the coast. Guests must present themselves at church on Sunday morning. The Fagafau bus, which meets all ferries from Upolu, will bring you directly here.
At Faiaai village, six km northwest of Satuiatua, you'll find a few fale by the highway where you can stay. There's a lovely beach at the bottom of the cliff below the village and you might be able to camp there.
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